Mahalo for supporting Honolulu Star-Advertiser. Enjoy this free story!
As if running a business through two years of a pandemic wasn’t enough to strain restaurateurs, the repercussions of war in Ukraine are driving up their costs due to rising fuel prices and disruptions to shipping and transportation. food supply.
Despite such difficulties associated with opening a restaurant today, chef Ernesto Limcaco left a comfortable job at Chef Zone to bring one of his ideas to life.
Perhaps best known in recent years for opening Burgers & Things in Pauoa in 2016, the chef has turned to prime rib. With the opening of Prime Roast Cafe, he took the carving station show from the realm of the hotel buffet for special occasions to the everyday realm of the downtown lunch crowd.
“People think I’m crazy, but I’m not,” he says. “The world is full of young chefs now, but what about an old chef – I’m 66 now – who still has a long way to go? The fire in my belly is still there so I decided to take the leap again.
During his many years working in the industry, he noted the primitive appeal of prime rib roast to people.
“The sculpting station has a magical caveman effect. Once you turn on this heat lamp, people seem to gravitate towards the light, and nowadays, anything you can do to arouse the senses of customers with smells, sights and sounds is helpful.
His new cafe is in the Arcade building at 212 Merchant St., in the space overlooking King Street that once housed Kai Coffee. There are tables for eight to 12 and in cafe bar style, counter stools for about eight more.
At the heart of the menu day and night, the plates of beef ribs. During the day, the $23 plate comes with vegetables of the day and a creamy horseradish sauce. In the evening, a 10-ounce, one-inch-thick slice ($30) comes with mashed potatoes, vegetables of the day (recently a mix of Brussels sprouts, strips of peppers and carrots of mixed colors), bone marrow with port juice and horseradish.
Beef is rare at base, intended for those who enjoy the bloody red of oozing myoglobin. There’s so much meat there that I was going to enjoy the salt and herb crusted exterior and apply more home heat to the leftovers.
Once you’ve checked out the main attraction, you can move on to its offshoots. Per day, that means the likes of a French dip sandwich ($17); prime rib panini ($14.99) with arugula, Swiss fondue, old-fashioned mustard and horseradish; or Prime Rib Philly Cheesesteak ($15.50) with layers of beef mille-feuille topped with sautéed onions, peppers and mushrooms, and smothered in a cheese sauce.
Limcaco also brines and smokes the turkey that goes into its Turkey Panini ($11.50), dressed in cranberry aioli and served with sprouts and house-pickled vegetables seasoned with juniper berries and ginger.
You will also find specials such as a recent offer of Australian wagyu bourguignon ($21) which I was too slow to act on and unfortunately found missing the next day.
Among the challenges of every restaurateur these days is finding reliable staff, and service can be slow when staffing emergencies leave Limcaco short-staffed. Even so, it is aiming for slow growth and recently started Thursday-Saturday dinner service, which has been popular with a take-out crowd.
Seating is limited, but those who stay will enjoy friendly service that comes with niceties like free homemade pickles and fresh bread. I enjoyed the chef’s recent offering of grilled herb focaccia with olive oil and balsamic vinegar, and butter.
Prime rib and fresh catch will be a constant, but otherwise the menu changes monthly. Recent entrees have included a combo of delicate homemade chicken liver mousse and rustic duck pâté ($15.55), and a cheese platter ($15.55) that included aged goat cheese manchego and Midnight Moon served with Manoa honey and mead honey.
I loved the classic, buttery offering of the New Zealand King Salmon Grenobloise ($25.55) which came with Limcaco’s mother’s garlic fried rice, as well as her light duck confit and crisp ($26.55) served with a raspberry-ginger gastritique.
Recognizing that non-meat eaters often control the direction of a group, as most people tend to want to be perceived as accommodating, there was also an Impossible Foods vegan “meat” cassoulet and white beans (25 $.55).
We finished with a slice of classic French tarte tatin ($10.55) covered in caramelized apple still warm from the oven.
With some friends vacationing in Paris at the time, for a few hours I could be with them in spirit.
First roast coffee
arcade building
212 Merchant St., Honolulu
Food: ***½
A service: ***
Vibe: ***
Value: ****
Call: 808-521-7777
Hours: 10am-4pm Monday to Saturday; 5 p.m. to 8 p.m. Thursday to Saturday
Prices: Lunch around $40-$50 for two; dinner around $100 for two
Visits to Nadine Kam’s restaurant are unannounced and paid for by Honolulu featured advertiser. Follow Nadine on Instagram (@nadinekam) or on YouTube (youtube.com/nadinekam).
